In 2004 I'd been travelling for a month round Thailand with a friend and we were getting pretty sick of each other. To get our Thai tourist visa renewed, we decided to cross into Cambodia where the system for getting said visa renewed seemed highly suspect at the very least. We had a pretty arduous journey in an old van across tough terrain and broken bridges, with the mind swirling from the last dregs of the valium and thoughts of 'landmine!'.
We finally made it into Siam Reap and after a week being taken for a ride by our crazy motorbike couriers, we decided it was time to move on and see Phnom Penh. If my addled mind remembers correctly, we could have flown, but no, we decide to get the 'luxury air-conditioned' ferry across the large lake. Alarm bells should have started ringing when we got on a floating crate with tuk-tuk engine. After a gentle ride inhaling diesel, we leap (literally) on to the 'luxury' craft. The thing was so full of people already, the only place for us was basically on the roof, which was fine at 7.30am. It soon got to 9am, then 10am and was getting a bit hot. By 10.13am we were out of water. Every ten minutes or so my friend would tap me and give a temperature update. "It's 42 degrees" he'd say. "It's now 43.7 degrees". By 47 degrees, his thermometer somehow found itself in the murky water below. Then the boat broke down. Find shade, any shade. Heat. Stroke. Dying. Three hours later we get rescued. And that boat was air conditioned.